Kapura Peak (6350-M)
Name Of Peak: Kapura Peak Elevation: (6350-M) Range: Karakoram Location: Kanday/ Baltistan Best Period: June – Sep Base Camp height 4500-M Longitude: 70° – 07E Ideal Duration: 30days First Ascent 2004 This spectacular peak located in beautiful rock paradise Nangma valley Kanday Baltistan. In early September 2013 the Portuguese climbers Daniela Teixeira and Paulo Roxo made the first ascent Kapura South(6350m) in the Nangma Valley, Karakoram, Pakistan, via their route Never Ending Dreams (1300m, M4). From 6 – 9 September Daniela Teixeira and Paulo Roxo made the first ascent of Kapura South, a beautiful 6350m peak located in Pakistan’s Nangma Valley and a sister summit of the main Kapura Peak (6544m) The two climbers from Portugal climbed a 1300m line up the SW Ridge past difficulties up to M4 and 70° ice and theirs is the first route from the Nangma Valley. Kapura’s main summit was first climbed in 2004 by Doug Chabot, Steve House, Bruce Miller, Marko Prezelj and Steve Swenson from the Charakusa side, while in 2009 Marek Holecek and Jan Doudlebsky added another route from the same side, namely Wild Wings (1300m, WI5+ M7, 70°).
| DAY | PROGRAM | TIME | HEIGHT | OVER NIGHT |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Welcome to Pakistan (Islamabad) | 500-M | Hotel | |
| 2 | Flight to Skardu subject to weather, Drive to Chilas | 12-13hrs | 1200-M | Hotel |
| 3 | Drive from Chilas to Skardu | 8-9hrs | 2450-M | Hotel |
| 4 | Free day/Preparation/sight seeing | 2450-M | Hotel | |
| 5 | Drive to Kanday | 5-6hrs | 2850-M | Camp |
| 6 | Trek to Minguloo Broq | 3-4hrs | 3250-M | Camp |
| 7 | Trek to Base Camp | 4-5hrs | 4200-M | Camp |
| 8-25 | Acclimatization/Climbing Day | Camp | ||
| 26 | Trek back to Kanday | 5-6hrs | 2850-M | Camp |
| 27 | Drive to Skardu 5-6hrs | 2450-M | Hotel | |
| 28 | Fly to Islamabad, subject to weather, Drive to Chilas | 8-9hrs | 1200-M | Hotel |
| 29 | Drive from Chilas to Islamabad | 12-13hrs | 500-M | Hotel |
| 30 | Towards your destination | FLY OUT |
Services Included
- All Airport pick and drop
- Both ways air fare between Islamabad – Gilgit – Islamabad.
- Transportation briefing, debriefing and sightseeing.
- Transportation between Islamabad – chilas – Skardu -Kanday
- Three nights’ Accommodation, twin bed room in Islamabad (bed & breakfast)
- Two nights in Chilas Hotel with full board.
- Three nights in Skardu with full board.
- Local staff Wages, insurance, food and equipment.
- Low porters to carry expedition and trekking equipment, foods.
- Way up 50kg each climbing members.
- Way down 25kg each climbing members.
- All trekking and base camp foods.
- Comfortable members tent, Mess tent, Kitchen tent, store tent, office tent, table, chairs & kitchen utensils.
- Assistance for Reconfirmation of international flight tickets.
- All Camping fees, road taxes & bridge crossing fee.
- Low Porters Equipment’s.
- Documentation & climbing permit
Services Not Included
- Member international flight tickets
- Helicopter emergency rescue fees (refundable after deduction of service charge U$D 300/-) it is now US$15000/-
- Members any climbing gears
- Member personal insurance
- High altitude tent
- High altitude food
- High altitude porter
- Sleeping bag and all personal expenses such as telephone calls, fax, email charges, liquor or soft drinks
- Room service, gratuities for personal services, items of a purely personal nature
- Custom clearing charges (import and export of equipment's)
- Any unforeseen expenses (just like road block extra hotel stay or if members stay more days at Base Camp) then members will be pay according to the numbers of days spent at Base Camp.
- Trekking members and climbing member will come together. If any/some member split during the period then there extra expenses will be charged according to normal price
- JACKETS - Polar fleece jacket (wool sweater may be used but not recommended). Windproof / waterproof breathable jacket Gore tex or similar. Down jacket (optional but may be very useful during the cold nights and for trekking or mountaineering trips).
- PANTS - Regular pants (better if they can transform to shorts). Polar fleece pants (optional but may be useful during the cold nights and for trekking or mountaineering trips).
- UNDERWEAR - Long top and bottom (synthetic mid weight thermal underwear better).
- SOCKS - Regular cotton socks. Thick wool socks recommended for trekking or mountaineering trips.
- SHIRT - Long sleeve shirts recommended; in the highlands prevent from sunburn (also helpful when traveling to the jungle to avoid being bitten by mosquitoes).
- FOOT WEAR - Lightweight boots or shoes for regular traveling.
- HAT - Polar fleece headband, wool hat, or balaclava for the night, and sun hat with brim for the day.
- GLOVES - Thin gloves for regular traveling. Other clothing. Bathing suit and bandanas are optional but may be useful.
- PLASTIC BOOTS - Recommended for mountaineering trips on glaciers and above 6,000m (20,000ft), make sure they fit your crampons and do not hurt your feet.
- LEATHER BOOTS - Recommended for short mountaineering trips usually below 6,000m (20,000ft). They are also good for "Trekking peak" trips to high volcanoes.
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