Rakaposhi (7788-M)

Name of Peak Rakaposhoi(7788-M) Location Karakoram Nagar Valley Best Period June-August Elevation 7788-M First Ascent 1978 Ranked 27(12 highest in Pakistan) Base camp Height 4000-M Rakaposhi, is one of the most magnificent peak found in the world today. It is situated in the Nagar Valley approximately 100 km north of the city of Gilgit. Rakaposhi means “shining wall” in the local language. Rakaposhi is also known as Rakaposhi Peak. Rakapushi and Dumani (“Mother of Mist”) It is ranked 27th highest in the world and 12th highest in Pakistan, but it is more popular for its beauty than its rank might suggest and is said to be one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. Rakaposhi was first climbed in 1958 by Mike Banks and Tom Patey, members of a British-Pakistani expedition, via the Southwest Spur/Ridge route. Both of them suffered minor frostbite during the ascent. Another climber slipped and fell on the descent and died during the night. Climbing routes The routes with successful summits so far have been (see the timeline as well): Southwest Spur/Ridge (first ascent route) Long, but not exceedingly technical, some tricky gendarmes (rock pinnacles) has been repeated Northwest Ridge Long and more technically difficult than the SW Spur/Ridge Has been repeated North Spur (a.k.a. North Ridge). Shorter than the above two routes, but much more technically difficult, has been repeated, including a semi-alpine-style (capsule style) ascent. Attempts have also been made from the east side (Bagrot Glacier), the East Ridge, and the North Face.